Gevrey-Chambertin, Combes du Dessus
Terroir
This lieu-dit has an excellent situation below the castle. It lies on a gentle east facing slope. The top soil is quite thin and the old vines, planted two generations ago, here tap into the limestone. The fruit is usually blended and vinified with other parcels from all around the village belonging the domaine.
The Domaine
The grapes of Combes du Dessus come from Domaine Rossignol-Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin. David and Nicolas Rossignol (distant cousins if the Volnay Rossignols) converted the domaine to bio-dynamics in 2004. Having tasted a vertical of Petite Chapelle last year, the change in viticulture, in particular the improved life and quality of the soil, has heightened levels of energy and vibrancy in their wine. The brothers push the boundaries in the vineyard, both nurturing and protecting their vines. Their trials of netting sections of the vineyards against hail, measured against a control, has resulted in the INAO accepting this practice to the potential benefit of all. Whether they are working in their village vineyards or in grand cru (Chambertin, Latricières & Chapelle-Chambertin), the attention to detail is the same. The brothers are both quite reserved and their elegant and restrained wines reflect this.
In the Winery
My job is to help the wine express the freshness, minerality and tension of the limestone site, while ensuring there is sufficient depth of fruit and finesses of tannin. In 2018 the fruit was picked on the 7th Sept. I liked the idea of 15% whole bunch for a touch of floral lift and extra complexity. The whole bunch formed a layer in the middle of the tank. The fermentation lasted 20 days reaching a peak of 27 degrees on day 12. To keep the straight palate, I made 4 light remontage (5 minutes with a gentle pump) and one rack and return just to finish the fermentation. There were five light pigeage in total, just standing on the cap to submerge it, to bring the body and tannins. I have used one year old oak from Cavin for ageing. Three barrels made.
In 2019 I had just 300 kilos of fruit, sufficient for just one barrel. I used more whole bunch, about 25% and used a bucket to take the juice and pour it over the top.
Style and When to Drink
This was the opportunity to discover the character of Combes du Dessus, which was revealed to be straight, taut and elegant with silky tannins and a touch of class. When Pinot Noir taps into limestone you expect a certain austerity. The tannin should have some bite and make the wine quite tight in youth and this is no exception, but those tannins are are fine grained and stretch the finish. They provide the wine with a good line, freshness and the potential for some ageing. The style of Combes du Desssus is straight and assertive, but refined. The bio-dynamic farming enhances the energy of this already fresh and bright wine. (It is quite different in style to the wines from the alluvial fan at the bottom of the village such as La Justice)
In 2018, this lieu-dit would benefit from three years bottle ageing, ie 5 years post vintage, but has the the potential to mature for several more…6 to 8 years at least, while the 2019 is more forward.
Vintages made
2018 and 2019.
In 2018 and 2019 the fruit quality was superb. No sorting needed. Beautiful bunches of glistening dark berries with ripe skins. In both vintages there is good freshness despite the hot summer. The freshness is enhanced by the sappy taste of the minerality. The 2018 is straight and tight and will benefit from more time to mature, while the ripe and more affable 2019 is typical of this vintage.